A Weekend in Edinburgh

Start your day with a traditional Scottish breakfast at The Edinburgh Larder on Blackfriars Street. This charming café emphasizes locally sourced ingredients in their full Scottish breakfast, complete with haggis, black pudding, and tattie scones. Fuel up well—you'll be doing plenty of walking today!

Head up the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle, the city's iconic landmark perched atop an extinct volcano. Arrive early to beat the crowds and allow at least 2 hours to explore this historic fortress. Don't miss the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and the One O'Clock Gun. The panoramic views across the city are breathtaking, so have your camera ready.

Make your way down the Royal Mile, Edinburgh's historic spine connecting the castle to Holyrood Palace. Duck into the numerous closes (narrow alleyways) that branch off the main street—each has its own story to tell. Visit St. Giles' Cathedral with its distinctive crown spire, and explore the Writers' Museum celebrating Scotland's literary heritage in a historic building just off the Mile.

For a truly memorable lunch experience, book a table at The Witchery by the Castle. This atmospheric restaurant near the castle gate offers Scottish fine dining in a gothic setting with oak paneling, tapestries, and candlelight. If your budget doesn't stretch that far, try the more casual Tolbooth Tavern or Deacon Brodie's Tavern for traditional Scottish fare.

Delve beneath the Royal Mile to explore The Real Mary King's Close, a preserved 17th-century street now buried beneath the city. On this guided tour, you'll learn about the lives (and deaths) of Edinburgh residents during plague times and hear spine-tingling tales of the close's haunted history.

Spend the late afternoon at the National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street. With its diverse collections covering Scottish history, natural world, science, technology, and world cultures, there's something to interest everyone. Don't miss the museum's Victorian Grand Gallery and the rooftop terrace with panoramic views of the city (free entry).

Head to the Grassmarket, a historic marketplace below the castle, now home to numerous restaurants and pubs. Try Makars Gourmet Mash Bar for innovative Scottish comfort food centered around various types of mashed potatoes paired with traditional meats and gravies. Their haggis, neeps, and tatties is a must-try for first-time visitors.

Conclude your first day with either a ghost tour of Edinburgh's haunted sites (Mercat Tours offers excellent evening walking tours) or a whisky tasting experience at the Scotch Whisky Experience near the castle. For those who prefer a more relaxed evening, enjoy the lively atmosphere and traditional folk music at Sandy Bell's pub on Forrest Road.

Begin your second day with breakfast at Urban Angel on Hanover Street in the New Town. Their focus on organic, locally sourced ingredients makes for a delicious and ethical start to the day. Try their homemade granola or Scottish smoked salmon with scrambled eggs.

Contrast yesterday's medieval exploration with a stroll through Edinburgh's elegant Georgian New Town. Admire the symmetrical streets, grand townhouses, and private gardens that epitomize Georgian urban planning. Wander down Heriot Row, Moray Place, and Ann Street—some of the most charming streets in the area. The wide, elegant thoroughfare of George Street offers upscale shopping, while parallel Princes Street provides views back to the Old Town and castle.

Visit the Scottish National Portrait Gallery on Queen Street, housed in a striking red sandstone neo-gothic building. Explore Scotland's history through portraits of its notable figures from Robert Burns to Sean Connery. The building itself is a work of art with its elaborate entrance hall murals (free entry).

Take a short bus ride (or a 25-minute walk) to Stockbridge for lunch at Tom Kitchin's gastropub, The Scran & Scallie. This relaxed venue offers high-quality Scottish pub food with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients. Book ahead to secure a table at this popular spot. The steak pie and fish and chips are particular highlights.

After lunch, explore the picturesque Dean Village, a former grain milling settlement that feels worlds away from the city center despite being just a 10-minute walk from Princes Street. With its well-preserved 19th-century buildings alongside the Water of Leith, it's one of Edinburgh's most photogenic locations. From here, follow the Water of Leith Walkway to the charming area of Stockbridge, with its independent shops and Sunday market (if your visit coincides).

Continue your walk to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, founded in 1670 and covering 70 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds. The glasshouses contain plants from diverse climates worldwide, while the outdoor gardens feature an impressive collection of rhododendrons and azaleas, as well as the peaceful Chinese Hillside garden. Entry to the gardens is free (though there's a small fee for the glasshouses).

Return to the city center and climb Calton Hill for spectacular sunset views over Edinburgh. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to several monuments, including the unfinished National Monument (often called "Edinburgh's Disgrace" or "Scotland's Folly") and the Nelson Monument. The panoramic vistas of the city, castle, and Firth of Forth are particularly magical as the sun sets and the city lights begin to twinkle.

For your final evening, enjoy dinner at Timberyard, an innovative farm-to-table restaurant housed in a converted warehouse. With its emphasis on locally foraged and fermented ingredients, it offers a contemporary take on Scottish cuisine. The tasting menu showcases the best seasonal produce in creative combinations. Reserve well in advance for this popular dining spot.

Cap off your Edinburgh weekend with drinks at Panda & Sons, a speakeasy-style bar hidden behind a barber shop façade on Queen Street. Their inventive cocktails, many featuring Scottish spirits, provide a perfect nightcap. For whisky enthusiasts, the nearby Bow Bar on Victoria Street offers one of the city's best selections of single malts in a traditional pub setting.